After you’ve become familiar with the “beaten” path in a foreign country, it’s time to stretch yourself and reach out onto the side streets and countryside that are the lifeblood of any community. Talk to people. Get to know the proprietors. Make memories that will last a lifetime.
Here are four of my favorite private inns in my favorite country to visit: Italy.
Rome: Althea Inn
My teenage son and I stayed at the Althea Inn four days in Rome and I recommend it enthusiastically. Owner Alessandro is excellent in his communication, emailing clear directions and offering much-needed suggestions as I prepared for our trip; he speaks English excellently and is very accommodating.
To arrive, follow Alessandro’s clear directions, but know that the streets are not very clearly marked. You will need to follow landmarks and count streets. The inn is located on the 5th floor of what looks to Americans like an apartment building, but this is typical of many residences and inns in Europe. From the street, you must have a key to enter, and I strongly recommend calling Alessandro once you arrive in Rome to let him know you are coming. The Inn is in a safe and quiet location about a 10-minute metro ride from the Colosseum, a three block walk away from the Pyramide stop.
The service at Althea Inn was wonderful. Housekeeper Leonie cleaned our room every day, Alessandro brought breakfast on a tray every morning, there were beverages available in a mini-fridge in the room, and we always came back to fresh fruit waiting for us in the afternoon.
For the location, room, and amenities, not to mention the service, it was a wonderful value. We slept soundly and well, and there were no community noises that disturbed us. If we were on the patio or had the patio doors open (which we did just about any time we were in the room – the weather was gorgeous!), we could hear the people staying in the next room if they, too, were on the delightful patio, but other than that, it was nothing but distant car sounds and birds.
Umbria: Agriturismo Casa del Vento
We stayed with Donatella’s family in July and were a bit nervous, as we do not speak Italian. Donatella’s daughter Celia, however (who was studying in Perugia at the time, but drove home just for us!), speaks very good English and between the three of us and a lot of gesturing, we had some very long, fun conversations!
The room was simple and comfortable, with toilet, bidet, shower, and sink en suite.
The views of Mont Subasio are breathtaking, as are those from the top of the hill behind the house, from where Casa del Vento (House of the Winds) originally took its name, three generations ago. From the top of the hill, the panorama is essential Umbria, just as you see in the most beautiful of pictures from this area.
Dinner, if you get full or half board, is at 8pm, and it very hearty! My 17- year-old football player of a son was very pleased with the quality and quantity of the meals, and it was so good, I had a difficult time not over- eating! Nonna cooks all the meals, mostly if not all from scratch, and we ate family- style in the dining room at our own table near the family table.
Assisi is a beautiful 25 minute drive away, but the agriturismo is a bit difficult to find on your first drive there. Look for signs that say Porciano 84… Not just “Casa Del Vento.” They’ll treat you just like family (minus the chores!).
Chianti: Ancora del Chianti
This idyllic escape rests in the heart of Chianti in Central Tuscany – yes, where the wine comes from! It is a producing vineyard and olive grove, and the views are breathtaking. Visitors are welcome to a communal breakfast every morning, and there is a separate kitchen available to travelers who want to try their own hand at cooking after being inspired by the tastes and aromas of Italian foods and open-air markets.
In one side yard, a hammock and reclining chair invite visitors to relax and bask in the beautiful countryside – it is a wonder to behold, for certain. The proprietors wisely turn off the WiFi for most of the day to encourage reflection, community, and escape. I loved that.
During our stay in Tuscany, we visited Vignamaggio, a working vineyard and estate, and also where Kenneth Branagh filmed his production of Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing. I would be lying if I didn’t admit that was a significant motivator in my decision to come to Chianti country!
Venice: Ai Tagliapietra
Ai Tagliapietra is in a good location – a 10-minute walk from the dock at most, and just a short stroll to the Rialto, San Marcos / Doge’s Palace, and interesting piazzas. BE SURE you take water bus 5.1 as owner Lorenzo will tell you. We were herded onto 4.2, and they both go to San Zaccharia, but to different docks – and there are a number of docks at San Zaccharia. Because of this, Lorenzo was unable to find us, since we were not where we were supposed to be. Fortunately, there IS a Tourist office just off the 4.2 line dock, and the gentleman was able to show us on our map the short walk to the B&B.
Lorenzo was helpful and accommodating. He offered a number of suggestions for activities and dining (one place, Mamo’s, gave us 10% off when we showed them his card and recommendation), and as we had to leave quite early on the morning of departure, prepared for us a “take-away” breakfast of juices and rolls since we would not be there for the scheduled breakfast time, 8:30-10am.
The building is safe and the rooms are behind three locked doors: one from the street, one to the floor, and the third to your room. They have the standard toilet, sink, bidet, and European shower – all clean and up-to-date. Our room in particular looked over the street and had both windows and shutters that could be used to close out the light and noise, if necessary. Venetian streets can be boisterous in the late evening, and the night before we left, we closed the shutters to get to bed early, and this effectively closed out any distracting street noise.
Sleep quality was good – the beds comfortable, clean, and well-presented. The floor has 3 or 4 rooms which share a single kitchenette and three/four breakfast tables. Lorenzo makes available to his guests the refrigerator, tea, tea cups and saucers. He told us simply leave our cups in the sink and he washed them in the morning.
All in all, a good place to stay in Venice. Getting back to the airport that early was a concern at first, but there is a Blue Line Alilaguna bus (NOT run by the same system as the vaporettos) that left the dock as early as 3:44 am, so it was not a problem!
Get into the Heart of Italy
While staying in chain hotels can seem easy and “safe,” travelers who stay there will never get beyond the touristy, commercial face of Italy. Staying, instead, with the people who live and work there, talking to them, getting their recommendations on how to invest your valuable time in their beautiful country – that is where the memories are made. Let me encourage you to step off the beaten path and stretch further into the heart of Italy.
